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1) Apply Interfacing Inside the cover, collar and back of chest area's triangle parts. | ||
2) Fist rough cut material bigger than
pattern. Also rough cut interfacing bigger than pattern and smaller than material and stick on the material with iron. |
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Make a copy of paper pattern mark. | ||
3) Do stitch holder all the cutting
parts. ? That is a method of zig zag sewing for home use. Make edge of cloth comes to center of metal holder. When needle goes down on right side, As to be forced out and sew zig zag. This way a part that being forced out covering edge of cloth and not to get frayed. Below URL : how to stitch holder. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UfF6HyxXeM |
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4) Put mark on collar, chest triangle
parts and hem. It is easy if using iron both side sticking tape. (Make sure this is a temp, sew with machine and place it) |
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? | 5) Layer 2 material on cloth folded inside out and open a side which is not apply snap button, sew like on the illustration and inside out again and stitch. | |
6) sew the darts. |
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7) Sew the shoulder. Spread open the seam. |
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8) layer sailor collar on cloth folded inside out and sew around. | ||
9) Just like illustration collar which shown outside place marking pin 2~3mm from outside. and sew up without getting wrinkle. | ||
10) As above, reason of (9)
because when human wear clothes, collar suppose to follow curve of neck. Outside of curve is longer than inside of curve. That's why filled up the gap reason, 2~3mm need to be inside more. |
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11) Inside out, stitch 5mm from outside. | ||
12) Collar layer on the bodice which
made it front place collar neck temporally. (about 5mm from outside) |
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13) Front and back of inside the cover
layer with cloth folded inside out and sew together. sew the body parts and facing together face to face. |
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14) Make a cut on collar 's margin to sew up. After make inside out only bodice. | ||
15) Sew the side of body parts. Spread open the seam. |
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16) Fold the facing material under. | ||
17) Avoid sailor collar, place inside
out on the bodice by stitching. How to sew sailor collar is after the open fastener on the movie. |
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18) Keep avoiding collar, front open triangle material layer under and sew together. | ||
19) Fold tuck to open side. Fold like yellow green line will layer on the pink line. How to sew cuffs Hoe to apply sleeve |
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20) Sew
sleeve. There extra space on the sleeve, reason for make it 3 demential. Make sure squeeze the gather. sew 2lines on the 2~3mm on top and bottom from front of finishing line. "Important" Beginning of sewing and end of it make sure starting from a way over 5cm from the edge and make sure have extra thread. |
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21) How to squeeze gather Make longer sew length on the machine. |
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22)Turn
down the dial for the upper thread. |
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23) Start sewing from 1.5cm from the
edge. Sew 2 lines in margin to sew up. Sew 2 lines gatherer better than 1 line. For beginning of sewing , make sure have extra thread after machined. For the end make sure have extra thread and cut. |
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24) After sew 2 lines on top and bottom and pull the under thread, it makes gather. | ||
25)Made to original thread adjustment and sew the bottom. | ||
26) The last, Layer
together sleeve and main part. Layer center of sleeve , margin of bottom of sleeve and margin of arm together and adjusting gather, place with marking pin. For beginners, do baste well and take out all marking pin and sew with machine. |
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Explanation on the pattern. Area that apply interfacing. Finishing line margin to sew up position where gather. position where cover with baiastape, where mark the pattern. adjusting position of sewing together. place cut already 5~7mm adjusting position of sewing together. make a hall on the conner. direction of material. layer this line will parallel with height of material. Where the corner, drawing a point the material as a mark. |
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