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How to make a Ashford school uniform from Code Geass. (Lelouch of the Rebellion)

tailored collar jacket of paper pattern.

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1) Put the paper pattern on to the material and mark around it.
On youhave done this cut along the lines.

Fist rough cut material bigger than pattern. Also rough cut interfacing bigger than pattern and smaller than material and stick on the material with iron.

front side. reverse side. facing material.

 Make a copy of paper pattern mark.
Let's make notches for alignment before sewing it
(You put an around 5-8mm cut in a margin for a seam so that
the cut is not seen from the right side as to align the position of sleeve and sleeve cap as well.)
zig zag

2) That is a method of zig zag sewing for home use.
Make edge of cloth comes to center of metal holder.
When needle goes down on right side, As to be forced out and sew zig zag.
This way a part that being forced out covering edge of cloth and not to get frayed.

3) Make the belt loop.

Fold the seam.

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4) the pocket is inside side out on the center front parts(lining).
5) Put the center front parts wrong side together.
Center front parts. 6) Wrap the edge by bias tape.
Center back parts. 7) Wrap the edge by bias tape.
8) Sew the belt loop.
9) Put the facing and body together face to face.

Sew the center front.

10) Put the side front and front body together face to face.

Sew the side front and front body.

11) Sew the shoulder and side.
12) Out the center front parts wrong side together.
13 )Wrap the edge by bias tape.
14) Sew the collar.

???(facing)??????????????

15) Layer the facing on the collar and sew it.
16) ???????????????
17) Make a cut on collar's margin to sew up.

After make inside out only bodice.

18) Sew the topstitching about 2-3mm in from the collar.
19) Laped seam by bias tape.
20) Layer the back side and center back.
Sew the red line.
21) Sew the yoke.
22)Rase up the yoke.

Sew the red line.

23) Layer the center front parts and center front.
Sew the red line.


24) Sew sleeve.
There extra space on the sleeve, reason for make it 3 dimensional.
Make sure squeeze the gather.
sew 2lines on the 2~3mm on top and bottom from front of finishing line.
"Important"
Beginning of sewing and end of it make sure starting from a way over 5cm from the edge and make sure have extra thread.
25) How to squeeze gather
Make longer sew length on the machine.

26) Turn down the dial for the upper thread.
27) Start sewing from 1.5cm from the edge.
Sew 2 lines in margin to sew up.
Sew 2 lines gatherer better than 1 line.
For beginning of sewing , make sure have extra thread after machined. For the end make sure have extra thread and cut.
28) After sew 2 lines on top and bottom and pull the under thread, it makes gather.
29) Made to original thread adjustment and sew the side.
30) Make cuffs.

Fold material in half making both edge are together.

31)
32) Laped seam by bias tape.
  33)
34) Put the bottom of sleeve and the cuffs together and sew.
35) Turn inside out and stitch where sewed.

36)

The last, Layer together sleeve and main part.
Layer center of sleeve , margin of bottom of sleeve and margin of arm together and adjusting gather, place with marking pin.
For beginners, do baste well and take out all marking pin and sew with machine.
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 37)
tailored collar jacket of paper pattern.  
Explanation on the pattern.
Area that apply interfacing.
Finishing line
margin to sew up
position where gather.
position where cover with baiastape, where mark the pattern.
adjusting position of sewing together. place cut already 5~7mm
adjusting position of sewing together. make a hall on the conner.
direction of material. layer this line will parallel with height of material.
Where the corner, drawing a point the material as a mark.
 

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