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How to make a Grimmjow Jeaguerjaques like jacket.

tailored collar jacket of paper pattern.

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1) Put the paper pattern on to the material and mark around it.
On youhave done this cut along the lines.

Fist rough cut material bigger than pattern. Also rough cut interfacing bigger than pattern and smaller than material and stick on the material with iron.

front side. reverse side. facing material.

2) Make a copy of paper pattern mark.
3) Let's make notches for alignment before sewing it
(You put an around 5-8mm cut in a margin for a seam so that
the cut is not seen from the right side as to align the position of sleeve and sleeve cap as well.)
zig zag

4) That is a method of zig zag sewing for home use.
Make edge of cloth comes to center of metal holder.
When needle goes down on right side, As to be forced out and sew zig zag.
This way a part that being forced out covering edge of cloth and not to get frayed.
5)
6) Sew the darts.

Fold the darts towards center back.

7) Sew the center back.

Spread open the seam.

8) Put the front bodice. and back bodice together face to face.

Sew the soulder and side.

9) Sew the underlining.

Sew the facing and front lining.

Sew the darts.

Fold the darts towards center back.

Sew the center back., soulder and side.

10) Sew the collar.

The beginner had better hand sew the cloth.

Put the collar together face to face.

11) If you merely sew,
when you will result in a bad collar.

the collar edge is lifted and looks bad.
Therefore, I put a collar of the topside of collar 2-3 millimeters.
12) The blue and green lines are the same length in edge.

Don't joint together at the tips.
Put the face of the collar 2-3mm inward.

Pin together at equal lengths from the center of the collar.

The collar has become baggy.

However, If you place pins equally, the collar will not become wrinkled.

use the unpicking scissors then take up length.

13)
14)
15) Put the underlining and face side material together face to face.
16) Snip around the curve.
A
B
C
17)
18) Sew the bottom.
19) Snip around the curve.

Turn the material inside out.

20) Sew the topstitching the red line 0.5cm in from edge.
21) Sew sleeve.
There extra space on the sleeve, reason for make it 3 demential.
Make sure squeeze the gather.
sew 2lines on the 2~3mm on top and bottom from front of finishing line.
"Important"
Beginning of sewing and end of it make sure starting from a way over 5cm from the edge and make sure have extra thread.
22) How to squeeze gather
Make longer sew length on the machine.

23) Turn down the dial for the upper thread.

24) Start sewing from 1.5cm from the edge.
Sew 2 lines in margin to sew up.
Sew 2 lines gatherer better than 1 line.
For beginning of sewing , make sure have extra thread after machined. For the end make sure have extra thread and cut.
25) After sew 2 lines on top and bottom and pull the under thread, it makes gather
26) Made to original thread adjustment and sew the underarm.

Made to original thread adjustment and sew the underlining of underarm.

Underlining of sleeve is same sewing.

27)

28)

how to make the sleeve of video.

29) Sew the face of sleeve and underlining of sleeve.

Pin the underlining and armhole together.

Explanation on the pattern.
Area that apply interfacing.
Finishing line
margin to sew up
position where gather.
position where cover with baiastape, where mark the pattern.
adjusting position of sewing together. place cut already 5~7mm
adjusting position of sewing together. make a hall on the conner.
direction of material. layer this line will parallel with height of material.
Where the corner, drawing a point the material as a mark.
tailored collar jacket of paper pattern.
 
 

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