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How to make tailored collar jacket.
tailored collar jacket of paper pattern.


1)Put the paper pattern on to the material and mark around it.
On you have done this cut along the lines.

Fist rough cut material bigger than pattern. Also rough cut interfacing bigger than pattern and smaller than material and stick on the material with iron.

front side. reverse side. facing material.


2) That is a method of zig zag sewing for home use.
Make edge of cloth comes to center of metal holder.
When needle goes down on right side, As to be forced out and sew zig zag.
This way a part that being forced out covering edge of cloth and not to get frayed.
3) Make a copy of paper pattern mark.
4) Let's make notches for alignment before sewing it
(You put an around 5-8mm cut in a margin for a seam so that
the cut is not seen from the right side as to align the position of sleeve and sleeve cap as well.)
Sew the shoulder.
5) Be sure to mark the point of intersection of the line of the paper pattern of the neckband, the center back neck and the position to fit with shoulder line.
Click here to see the animation of how to sew tailor collar
6) Put a mark in a neckband after you attach interfacing.
At neckband coming to the right side, mark to the hole made in the above figure by piling up a paper pattern with disappearing air-soluble marker or the pen which do not stain through the face.
At the backside, you can sew neatly if you pull a completion line like a figure to cross to be easy to sew it.

?Facing side becomes top collar (As it comes to the face if you turn it down)
Attach the interfacing to backside collar to make collar thick.

Put a notch in the lapel (the part which warped of the chest) of facing and the part of the boundary of the neckband as a mark and stab straight a needle from right above so that the seal of the neckband and the position of the cut of the lapel meet and fix it. At corner of the shoulder side, place a needle at just the point of intersection of the seal of the neckband and a completion of the garment body.

8) Start to sew manually and begin to sew it by setting a sewing machine needle so that a needle just falls into the point of intersection. Around the time to finish sewing, you lose speed with care not to sew too much it or you sew it manually just to the point of intersection.

9)Because when you just sew a neckline, you might draw a neckline if you do nothing, so you reverse it and make a notch for a feeling to have 1 millimeter leave not to cut a seam at the corner of the front garmend body.
(You do not need to cut the neckband)

10)To sew the back from the side of necks
You sew it with a big seam manually, and not to slide a place of which 2-3mm more away from a line to close by a sewing machine.
11) Please sew it so that an angle matches properly not to slide as much as possible.
If seams were piled up or slide from the top, it seems to have been drawn seeing from right side.
In addition, if you try to avoid to sew extra cloth, fold cloth, and sew it in a state straight as much as possible, you can sew it neatly.

Because the place of the curve is easy to be drawn or uneven, it looks plain if you put some shallow notches in the margin of a seam.
(as for the side of garment body)

12) Divide the margin to sew up by iron.

Sew the facing. to the collar.


Sew the facing to the center front.

15)Sew the both ends of the collars by piling up, avoiding to sew the margin for a seam of collars.

Sew the upper side of neckbands.
Please sew this by putting marks together well.

17) Sew from the top point of facing to the border of the collar.
and stop to sew it to be united with the line which passed through a neckband first.

Please try to avoid a margin for a seam with care not to sew the margin for a seam of the collar then.

18) Sew the center front.

Cutting off unwanted seam margin.
Cut off the seam corner leaving 2mm space.
ew the center front.
Because a corner is drawn when you turn the cloth, you make a notch not to cut sewing thread
like in the red part of the figure.
When you put a fastener in the front, you joint a fastener temporarily to the garment body first, then sew it like holding
between garment body and facing.
(the top position of the fastener is limited to a notch)
Cutting off unwanted seam margin.
Cut off the seam corner leaving 2mm space.


Fold facing to the under.


Sew the topstitching from the 0.5cm in from the center front of edge.

21jMake button hole

Please read sewing machine of explanatory note.

22) Sew collars and fold it.
Because you turn down half of the collars, the length of a collar seen on the face and a collar hiding in the back become different for the thickness length.
Therefore the collar became drawn when you fold the hem of the collar according to paper pattern and put it inside.
So, fix a collar with a pin by folding a collar like the completion so as to make a collar line like a natural curve.
And if you fold the hem of the collar, put it inward and sew it manually, it is finished neatly.

Hand sew the facing by a blind stitch

Because there is a lapel in facing like a collar, you fold it for a moment and put the room for curves and stop a pin so that a wrinkle does not occur.

24) Sew the side.
Fold the hem by iron.
Fold by 2 centimeters width as a completion line with irons.
You may sew it with a sewing machine straight, but you may stitch line by hand.

25) Sew sleeve.
There extra space on the sleeve, reason for make it 3 demential.
Make sure squeeze the gather.
sew 2lines on the 2~3mm on top and bottom from front of finishing line.
Beginning of sewing and end of it make sure starting from a way over 5cm from the edge and make sure have extra thread.

26) How to squeeze gather
Make longer sew length on the machine.

27) Turn down the dial for the upper thread.
28) Start sewing from 1.5cm from the edge.
Sew 2 lines in margin to sew up.
Sew 2 lines gatherer better than 1 line.
For beginning of sewing , make sure have extra thread after machined. For the end make sure have extra thread and cut.
29) After sew 2 lines on top and bottom and pull the under thread, it makes gather.
30) Made to original thread adjustment and sew the side.
31) Make a folding line with an iron at the cuffs adjusting to your sleeve length.
Take a stitch by a straight line from the inside.
When you do not want to take out a seam, sew it by blind stitch.
32) The last, Layer together sleeve and main part.
Layer center of sleeve , margin of bottom of sleeve and margin of arm together and adjusting gather, place with marking pin.
For beginners, do baste well and take out all marking pin and sew with machine.
  34)You can attach a button to the sleeve for your preference.
If you do not understand how to use of the function of the buttonhole of the sewing machine, there is also the method fixing with a snap button to display a button.
tailored collar jacket of paper pattern.

Size1 Bust 72~78cm Waist 58~64cm Hip 82~90cm Height 152cm
Size2 Bust 79~87cm Waist 64~70cm Hip 87~95cm Height 158cm
Size3 Bust 86~94cm Waist 69~77cm Hip 97~105cm Height 163cm
Can be worn under above size.
Also this pattern come with 1/10 size. You don't have to count amount of material.
Just line up inside of 1/10 size and you can figure how much you need material.

This is a pattern for tailor collar jacket for women who want to be dressed like a man.This pattern already has base for sew base. the way you are not going to mistake and finished up making smaller.
Also pattern has illustration of which parts, it is really easy to make.

You can make those costume below the list.
The Prince of Tennis
The Melancholy of Haruhi Suzumiya
Ouran High School Host Club
Explanation on the pattern.
Area that apply interfacing.
Finishing line
margin to sew up
position where gather.
position where cover with baiastape, where mark the pattern.
adjusting position of sewing together. place cut already 5~7mm
adjusting position of sewing together. make a hall on the conner.
direction of material. layer this line will parallel with height of material.
Where the corner, drawing a point the material as a mark.

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No reproduction or republication without written permission.

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Copyright 2001 usako(USAKO). All rights reserved. Never reproduce or republicate without written permission.