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How to make a Luppi like jacket.

tailored collar jacket of paper pattern.

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1) Put the paper pattern on to the material and mark around it.
On youhave done this cut along the lines.

Fist rough cut material bigger than pattern. Also rough cut interfacing bigger than pattern and smaller than material and stick on the material with iron.

front side. reverse side. facing material.

2) Make a copy of paper pattern mark.
3) Let's make notches for alignment before sewing it
(You put an around 5-8mm cut in a margin for a seam so that
the cut is not seen from the right side as to align the position of sleeve and sleeve cap as well.)
zig zag

4) That is a method of zig zag sewing for home use.
Make edge of cloth comes to center of metal holder.
When needle goes down on right side, As to be forced out and sew zig zag.
This way a part that being forced out covering edge of cloth and not to get frayed.
5) Sew the center back.
6) Sew the side.

Repeat on the lining end.

7) Put the front side and reverse side together face to face.

Sew the red line.

Snip around the curve.

8) Turn the material inside out.

Sew the topstitching the red lline 0.5cm in from edge.

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10) Sew the darts.

Sew the center back.

11) Sew the sleeve and body together face to face.

Repeat on the under lining.

12) Put the face side and lining together face to face.

Sew the bottom 1cm in from edge.

Turn the material inside out.

Sew the topstitching the bottom 0.5cm in from edge.

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14) Sew the collar together face to face.

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15) Snip around the curve.
16) Sew the collar and underlining.

Spread open the seam.

17) Put the face side material and underlining wrong side together.

Sew the topstitching the collar and center front.

18) Sew the topstitching 0.2 - 0.5cm in from the neck hole.

Sew the arm hole 0.5cm in from edge.

19) Wrap the edge by bias tape.
20) Fold handle half as showing lining, stitch 1.5cm on top and bottom.
inside out and sew around about 5mm.

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21) Sew the facing on the front bodice.

22) Sew sleeve.
There extra space on the sleeve, reason for make it 3 dimensional.
Make sure squeeze the gather.
sew 2lines on the 2~3mm on top and bottom from front of finishing line.
"Important"
Beginning of sewing and end of it make sure starting from a way over 5cm from the edge and make sure have extra thread.
23) How to squeeze gather.
Make longer sew length on the machine.

24) Turn down the dial for the upper thread.

25) Start sewing from 1.5cm from the edge.
Sew 2 lines in margin to sew up.
Sew 2 lines gatherer better than 1 line.
For beginning of sewing , make sure have extra thread after machined. For the end make sure have extra thread and cut.
26) After sew 2 lines on top and bottom and pull the under thread, it makes gather
27) Made to original thread adjustment and sew the underarm.

Made to original thread adjustment and sew the underlining of underarm.

Underlining of sleeve is same sewing.

Turn the face side material inside out.

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29) Wrap the edge by bias tape.
30) Layer together sleeve and main part.
Layer top of sleeve , margin of bottom of sleeve and margin of arm together and adjusting gather, place with marking pin.
For beginners, do baste well and take out all marking pin and sew with machine.

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how to make the sleeve of video.

31) Sew the face of sleeve and underlining of sleeve.

Pin the underlining and armhole together.


32) Sew the sword of loop.

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Fold both seam magin.

Fold loop in half. and sew the topstitching.

Fold both seam magin.

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Sew the topstitching.

Attach the snap..
Explanation on the pattern.
Area that apply interfacing.
Finishing line
margin to sew up
position where gather.
position where cover with baiastape, where mark the pattern.
adjusting position of sewing together. place cut already 5~7mm
adjusting position of sewing together. make a hall on the conner.
direction of material. layer this line will parallel with height of material.
Where the corner, drawing a point the material as a mark.
tailored collar jacket of paper pattern.
 

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