1) Apply Interfacing Inside the cover, collar and back of chest area's triangle parts.
|2) Fist rough cut
material bigger than pattern.
Also rough cut interfacing bigger than pattern and smaller than material and stick on the material with iron.
|3) Do stitch holder all
the cutting parts.
? That is a method of zig zag sewing for home use.
Make edge of cloth comes to center of metal holder.
When needle goes down on right side, As to be forced out and sew zig zag.
This way a part that being forced out covering edge of cloth and not to get frayed.
Below URL : how to stitch holder.
|4) Front and back of inside the cover layer with cloth folded inside out and sew together.|
|5) Put mark on collar,
chest triangle parts and hem.
It is easy if using iron both side sticking tape.
(Make sure this is a temp, sew with machine and place it)
|6) Layer 2 material on cloth folded inside out and open a side which is not apply snap button, sew like on the illustration and inside out again and stitch.|
|7) sew the darts.
|8) layer a bodice on the cloth folded inside out and sew the shoulder. divide the margin to sew up.|
|9) layer sailor collar on cloth folded inside out and sew around.|
|10) Just like illustration collar which shown outside place marking pin 2~3mm from outside. and sew up without getting wrinkle.|
|11) As above, reason of
because when human wear clothes, collar suppose to follow curve of neck.
Outside of curve is longer than inside of curve. That's why filled up the gap reason, 2~3mm need to be inside more.
|12) Inside out, stitch 5mm from outside.|
|13) Collar layer on the
bodice which made it front place collar neck temporally.
(about 5mm from outside)
|14) A facing layer on the collar and sew as lining of facing is the top.|
|15) Make a cut on collar
's margin to sew up. After make inside out only bodice.
|16) Avoid sailor collar,
place inside out on the bodice by stitching.
How to sew sailor collar is after the open fastener on the movie.
|17) Keep avoiding collar, front open triangle material layer under and sew together.|
|18) Sew the side.
Sew up 4cm up (till where fastener stops) on the side of dominant arm.
How to sew the invisible zipper movie clip.
After applied fastener, Sew straight on the other side.
Margin to sew up divide left and right.
Apply hook on end of fastener.
|19) In case not applying
Divide margin left and right with iron.
Make 3cm~30.5cm of facing and 6cm~30.5cm handle.
Apply interfacing on the lining.
Don't forget t=stitching holder.
|20) Fold handle half as
showing lining, stitch 1.5cm on top and bottom.
inside out and sew around about 5mm.
Sew facing on the front bodice.
Sew L line from end of open to down.
(Be aware, the arm side is 1cm, hem's margin is 2cm.)
Inside out bodice.
Fold sleeve this time and sew around also.
|22)Sew handle on the
back of arm.
Sew from end of open, it doesn't have to be L shape.
open handle and avoid bodice, stitch about 2mm width from end of end of open on the back.
|23) Stitch from 1.5cm on
front of handle.
Apply snap button.
This way doesn't need fastener/
|24) Fold tuck to open
Fold like yellow green line will layer on the pink line.
How to sew cuffs
Hoe to apply sleeve
There extra space on the sleeve, reason for make it 3 demential.
Make sure squeeze the gather.
sew 2lines on the 2~3mm on top and bottom from front of finishing line.
Beginning of sewing and end of it make sure starting from a way over 5cm from the edge and make sure have extra thread.
|26) How to squeeze
Make longer sew length on the machine.
|Turn down the dial for
the upper thread.
|27) Start sewing from 1.5cm
from the edge.
Sew 2 lines in margin to sew up.
Sew 2 lines gatherer better than 1 line.
For beginning of sewing , make sure have extra thread after machined. For the end make sure have extra thread and cut.
|29) After sew 2 lines on top and bottom and pull the under thread, it makes gather.|
|30) Made to original thread adjustment and sew the bottom.|
|31) The last,
Layer together sleeve and main part.
Layer center of sleeve , margin of bottom of sleeve and margin of arm together and adjusting gather, place with marking pin.
For beginners, do baste well and take out all marking pin and sew with machine.
|32) Recommend material
for this outfit, Katsuragi etc, med thickness material.
Cotton, polyester, wool etc is good for.
#14 needle is the best to make this outfit with.
|Explanation on the
Area that apply interfacing.
margin to sew up
position where gather.
position where cover with baiastape, where mark the pattern.
adjusting position of sewing together. place cut already 5~7mm
adjusting position of sewing together. make a hall on the conner.
direction of material. layer this line will parallel with height of material.
Where the corner, drawing a point the material as a mark.
Size1 Bust 72~78cm Waist 58~64cm Hip 82~90cm Height 152cm
Size2 Bust 79~87cm Waist 64~70cm Hip 87~95cm Height 158cm
Size3 Bust 86~94cm Waist 69~77cm Hip 97~105cm Height 163cm
We made this pattern for person who from the above sizes.
|Most japanese anime
school outfit are sailor outfit!
This pattern can be use for casual clothing , gothic lolita etc. many kinds of cosplay.
This pattern is most popular one always in Top 10.
Also, this pattern already has base for sew base. the way you are not going to mistake and finished up making smaller.
Also pattern has illustration of which parts, it is really easy to make.
You can make many different anime outfit as long as sailor style.
Also you can arrange adding lace and make it lolita style blouse.
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